Keiki madness

The swell dropped off on the north shore and with Pipe looking bad  Skip , Dre, Alex, Rusty and I hit up Keiki shore break with Tim Jones.

The waves were bigger than they looked and we all got some large chambers and sweet visions. Andre was going mad air drop  lip launching in to  oblivion.

I broke  my board almost in half only the graphic slick was holding it together  as I got pounded on a super wide thick wave. This was the first bodyboard I think I have ever broke like this  kind of cool. Luckily it was an old shore break board and Yamo is sending me new ones on Monday

When we got back to our car we saw that the car next to us had been broken in to, and that their stuff was stolen  hectic.  Very glad it was not my car, but mad about the lame people doing stupid things like this.

2 Responses to “Keiki madness”

1. qbell says:

   January 23, 2009 at 4:19 pm

   yeah breaking a board in the surf is the best way to let a board go. I broke a hubb with my face @ jenks a couple of years ago. got a bloody nose from a invert landing in the flats. i was stoked though!
2. river says:

   January 27, 2009 at 9:07 pm

   Oh man wow one time I was at keiki and it was too big for me to surf so i bodysurfed lickin’s style. You know Keiki unpredictable, off and on. And this very large lady went out hit the rip phhhwoomp gone. My dad jumped in and my uncle slipped on his fins. Jumped in got the lady on the beach and phhhwoomp sucked out and gets pounded by a solid 10 foot face. Almost drowned, dad got her out pupiles dialated, couldn’t talk heavy breathing. I don’t even think she knew how close she was to dying. It was some heavy S@#$ my dad and uncle were silent.