I stayed an extra few days in tahiti so I could score this wave on moorea. we took the ferry over at 6 am with our car and hit up this world class right hand reef. it was 3-6 ft and barreling for 200 yards over shallow coral. It was so fun, I surfed for 6 hours till I broke my board in half doing a big air forward and an invert. After That we went and had a tahtian feast with our friends family, it was amazing possion cru,fresh ahi sashimi and beef heart. So much good food and hospitality in these islands it is amazing. After that huge meal we went and watched the perfect waves again and the sun set it was a good day in the island and we celebrated by enjoying a few hinanos on the ferry home, a perfect end to the day.
i envy you
tame… cough cough
MaitaiRoa ae! What a great wave, real long a close to shore! MO’OREAN BARRELS!
Bonjour mon ami,
it was a very good trip!!