The last few days have offered up some super fun waves at the Banzai. Da hui backdoor shoot out was on, so early morning surfs before and after comp surfs were the call. Though it was tough but kinda fun to hang out and watch the sick waves go unridden or ridden to perfection all day. Andrew got a few pics of me as well as Maurice, much mahalo guys, and even I snapped a few empty’s while watching with my iphone 4. It felt really good to be back surfing big pipe and watching the fellas as well. Skipp has been dominating the line and BW’s surfing and fitness have never looked better charging hard and living it up since being released from jail a few months ago. I am hoping to get some more pipe days now that the comp is finished, though we only have about 20 days left before the next one starts though ha ha.











Chief, you make it look so effortless, so clean. How does someone take it to there max potential? After awhile someone will plateau, how do they take to a next level? Is it broken down to percentage of 90% talent, 5% mental, 5% preparation or 40% preparation, 30% talent, 30% mental and so on or just give it up and be happy with what they got, I don’t know. Is it good photography or video edit, it couldn’t be you’re 2X world champ with multiple accolades under your belt. thanks
The Beauty of Pipe!! Looks mad! One day I will be in those
light blue pits! Here’s a few summer waves (South Africa) of this
morning.
http://ronaldsblogi.blogspot.com/2011/01/surf-frame-grabs.html
one of your iphone photos reminds me of my aaron chang on my living room wall! good to see your up and repping bbing!
Jeff, how long do your custom boards last you?
Jeff, how long do your custom boards last for you? Do they end up getting water logged?
They last a while I am on my third month with my boards now and no water log issues yet .